What route should I go with my car audio system?


I have been searching the net for information over car audio systems only to have every site contradict the other about the “right” way to do a car audio set up

I have an alpine pdx 1.1000 amp with two alpine type r 10′ subs

Some sites claim you need a new alternator, others claim adding…

Kicker 12″17 its better………….
Kicker 08S12L74 Solo-Baric L7 12-Inch 300mm 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer
Technical Details
– 12-inch Solo-Baric L7 subwoofer
– One-piece, injection-molded cone with full-coverage back bracing
– 750 Watts RMS (1500 Watts peak) power handling with 4-ohm impedance
– 20-100 Hz frequency response
– One-year limited warranty

KICKER S12L7 Features :-
– SoloKon for strength and accuracy
– T cut top plate for high magnetic field strength
– Aluminum coil former (same as SoloX)
– Pole venting at cone brace
– Stitched and glued tinsel leads enable high excursion
– Ribbed Santoprene surround

http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-08S12L74-So…

For more
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-…

@@@

Caps are a waste of money as they draw power to give a quick jolt for peaks, not continuous power. The most they are good for is filtering noise out of the power wire, which shouldn’t be a problem anyway. Extra batteries can work, but are usually reserved for extreme systems along with a isolator. They still will need a way of being recharged and stock alternators won’t do.

The most common upgrade is a high output alternator coupled with a Optima battery. The alt is what recharges the battery, runs the whole car’s electrical system as well as any mods done. The battery is the means of starting and electrical reserve to aid the alternator. See where this is going? You could start off with the Optima battery as it has long drain times and extra reserve. If you start to have problems keeping it charged while driving and running the stereo, lights, etc then get the H.O. alternator. You also will want to upgrade some wiring under the hood to help current flow better and this will work with stock batteries and stock alternators as well. Look up the “Big 3”. That’s the cheapest upgrade.

The Alpine is a good strong amp, but it is efficient too. Unless you are doing much playing while the car is not running, you should not have much problems. If you see the lights dimming while driving at night and playing the system, start systematically doing the mods in this order and see if it helps before going to the next:

1. Big 3
2. Optima battery
3. H.O. alternator

I would say the capacitors are the best way to go or if you can find a higher charging alternator that might be better. adding a second battery seems to be a pain in the @ss.

its probably the fuse. if you left the neg and pos wires loose wen u removed the subwoofers it could of shorted and blew the fuse.. usually located near the battery on the main power cable.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *